Our last day in Paris dawned dry with the hope of sunshine. As we had the room until noon and Chet still felt poorly, we stayed in our room, had breakfast, and watched French daytime television (including a really funny take on Candid Camera called "Gags pour rire" (gags for a laugh)). After we checked out of our room, we spent some time on the computer in the lobby checking Chet in for his flight home and organizing ourselves. Then it was out for our last day.
Chet wanted to make a last trip to his favorite viennoiserie to buy three chocolate almond pastries (one for here, one for the plane, and one for home) and to get a baguette. They weren't his favorite, but they would do. Then we wandered around the neighborhood some more, went down toward the Jardin du Luxembourg for a last visit and stopped off at the rose shop on the way, where we got rose sirop and rose tisane. Very nice.
The Jardin was beautiful. All of Paris turned out for the lovely October day - sunshine at last, for the weekend! There were young families, and we got to see a patch of grass that was actually authorized for playing on - unlike most which is "interdit" or forbidden. Very funny. But also nice, as it does mean that it's very pretty for everyone to enjoy. Lots of sailboats in the fountain that day, as well, with children following along the edges, poles in hand. Really, this was one of our favorite spots in the city.
We wandered back to the hotel via a different route (GPS girl's mechanism still working), got to approach our hotel from a different angle and also travel some different neighborhoods. Which was rather nice. After collecting our luggage, we went back to Cafe du Metro for an early dinner and to say good-bye to Emilie. By far the most friendly of the wait persons we encountered in a city full of them.
We caught the Metro at San Sulpice, right outside the cafe, and had a direct line back up to the Gare du Nord. Back on the Eurostar for the train back to Waterloo, then onto a local train to Twickenham, where Jonathan met us. At the end of a wonderful French adventure.
Saturday, October 6, 2007
9/28 Napoleon's Tomb, Musee de Rodin, Petit Palais
Friday, our last full day in Paris. Gray skies and rain. What to do??
Well, naturally, we had to pay our respects to Napoleon, who resides under the dome near the Musee de l'Armee. Why? well, Lynne hadn't done it yet and wanted to see. Chet objected somewhat, as Napoleon is not one of his heroes, but - as he so often does - he indulged her. Besides, the Rodin was right next door and that featured a garden showcasing the sculptures. So, we traipsed through the rain to the Musee de l'Armee and saw Napoleon's tomb. Finally, he was granted his last wish which was to lie on the banks of the Seine amid the populace.
The Rodin Museum does a splendid job of showcasing his sculptures in a garden. And there are additional works of art in the small house in which he used to live. Even in the rain, this was quite lovely. After that, we walked up to the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais just to see them up close. We spent a little bit of time in the Petit Palais which features - yes - more works of art and a small central garden courtyard. It was worth it just to see the building, though, which conformed to the French motto of architecture: "leave no space unadorned".
Walking in the rain is a tiring business, though, particularly when you're under the weather. So, we decided to walk through the rain back to the hotel for a short rest before our last dinner in Paris, which was also a short distance from our hotel. Lynne had remembered a splendid seafood feast in a "cave" in Bordeaux - all manner of sea creatures, including oysters, cockles, a crab and shrimp - in a single platter. And, served up with a very nice mignonette and a house-made mayonnaise, we feasted on those and more. With a side of haricots verts because we decided that we'd done without vegetables for long enough! And most excellent, they were, too.
We were worried that the waiters in such a fancy place might be a bit snooty, but they weren't in the least. And our waiter shared with us his hope that he'd be able to come to the States with a group of friends and drive Route 66 from west to east! So much for the myth of the snooty Parisians.
Well, naturally, we had to pay our respects to Napoleon, who resides under the dome near the Musee de l'Armee. Why? well, Lynne hadn't done it yet and wanted to see. Chet objected somewhat, as Napoleon is not one of his heroes, but - as he so often does - he indulged her. Besides, the Rodin was right next door and that featured a garden showcasing the sculptures. So, we traipsed through the rain to the Musee de l'Armee and saw Napoleon's tomb. Finally, he was granted his last wish which was to lie on the banks of the Seine amid the populace.
The Rodin Museum does a splendid job of showcasing his sculptures in a garden. And there are additional works of art in the small house in which he used to live. Even in the rain, this was quite lovely. After that, we walked up to the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais just to see them up close. We spent a little bit of time in the Petit Palais which features - yes - more works of art and a small central garden courtyard. It was worth it just to see the building, though, which conformed to the French motto of architecture: "leave no space unadorned".
Walking in the rain is a tiring business, though, particularly when you're under the weather. So, we decided to walk through the rain back to the hotel for a short rest before our last dinner in Paris, which was also a short distance from our hotel. Lynne had remembered a splendid seafood feast in a "cave" in Bordeaux - all manner of sea creatures, including oysters, cockles, a crab and shrimp - in a single platter. And, served up with a very nice mignonette and a house-made mayonnaise, we feasted on those and more. With a side of haricots verts because we decided that we'd done without vegetables for long enough! And most excellent, they were, too.
We were worried that the waiters in such a fancy place might be a bit snooty, but they weren't in the least. And our waiter shared with us his hope that he'd be able to come to the States with a group of friends and drive Route 66 from west to east! So much for the myth of the snooty Parisians.
9/27/07 L'Opera Garnier
Chet woke up late with a scratchy throat. Too many days in the rain (although he says it's Lynne's fault for making him traipse through all those museums for hours at a time). Went up to the road of grands magasins (big department stores), the Boulevard Hausmann. Also home to the local FedEx depot.
The Opera Garnier, Paris's grand beaux arts opera house, resides in the same neighborhood so we also went to visit. The building is utterly spectactular; Lynne's decided that the French architectural motto is to "leave no square inch undecorated". Between the gold leaf and the crystal chandeliers, the grand staircase, not to mention the Marc Chagall dome in the auditorium, the building is a work of art. After all, when it was first built, one went to the opera to be seen - most certainly not for the music! We were both very impressed. Plus, they have a library of the music from the operas probably going back over a hundred years. We tried to get tickets for the opera the following night (Richard Strauss's Capriccio), but the only tickets available were cheap with obstructed views of the stage. To Chet's shock, Lynne didn't want to see an opera where only part of the stage was available. So, we considered going the following night to see if there were returns, depending on where we were and how Chet was feeling.
After we'd finished left the opera house, we walked through the department store district. Chet was amazed at the number of French people who still smoke. Cigarette smoke pervades every cafe, restaurant and doorway. It's hard to escape it when you're out and it can make eating in a restaurant less entertaining.
Crossing through the district of grands magasins, we finally found our way over to Les Halles and the Librairie Gourmand (gourmand's bookshop). As the name would suggest, this bookshop is wholly devoted to food and cooking. It was Lynne's turn to sit, eyes glazing over, while Chet perused all the different sections. In all, he bought five cookbooks: Fish & Fish, Le Pain (bread), Les Fromages (cheese), Les Oeufs (eggs), and Mes 100 Recettes de Citron (lemons). Wow ..... and all in French, ambitous man!
Since it rained and we were tired, we wound up stopping off at the Monoprix for some tomatoes fruits, a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine, and having dinner in our room. A veritable feast of smelly cheeses! Yum .....
The Opera Garnier, Paris's grand beaux arts opera house, resides in the same neighborhood so we also went to visit. The building is utterly spectactular; Lynne's decided that the French architectural motto is to "leave no square inch undecorated". Between the gold leaf and the crystal chandeliers, the grand staircase, not to mention the Marc Chagall dome in the auditorium, the building is a work of art. After all, when it was first built, one went to the opera to be seen - most certainly not for the music! We were both very impressed. Plus, they have a library of the music from the operas probably going back over a hundred years. We tried to get tickets for the opera the following night (Richard Strauss's Capriccio), but the only tickets available were cheap with obstructed views of the stage. To Chet's shock, Lynne didn't want to see an opera where only part of the stage was available. So, we considered going the following night to see if there were returns, depending on where we were and how Chet was feeling.
After we'd finished left the opera house, we walked through the department store district. Chet was amazed at the number of French people who still smoke. Cigarette smoke pervades every cafe, restaurant and doorway. It's hard to escape it when you're out and it can make eating in a restaurant less entertaining.
Crossing through the district of grands magasins, we finally found our way over to Les Halles and the Librairie Gourmand (gourmand's bookshop). As the name would suggest, this bookshop is wholly devoted to food and cooking. It was Lynne's turn to sit, eyes glazing over, while Chet perused all the different sections. In all, he bought five cookbooks: Fish & Fish, Le Pain (bread), Les Fromages (cheese), Les Oeufs (eggs), and Mes 100 Recettes de Citron (lemons). Wow ..... and all in French, ambitous man!
Since it rained and we were tired, we wound up stopping off at the Monoprix for some tomatoes fruits, a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine, and having dinner in our room. A veritable feast of smelly cheeses! Yum .....
9/26/07 The Corsican Shop, the Cheese Shop & Ile de la Cite
Got up and went to the small cafe next to us (again), called the Parisian. Chet had a ham and cheese omelet, which was very good, and Lynne had the usual cafe creme with a croissant (absolutely wonderful, fresh and flaky with a crisp outer layer).
Next we stopped at a small shop which sells Italian foods, and were able to by some bottarga, along with some homemade fig and other jams which we couldn't resist. The lady was the shop owner's mother, who lives in Corsica and makes the jams herself. Her son, who was in Corsica visiting, established the shop 15 years ago after a successful career in finance. Much to his father's and his grandfather's dismay, he gave up the career just as it was taking off in order to open the little shop, modeled after his aunt's in Corsica. His grandfather refused to ask after him for a good six months afterward! ("We didn't send him to university in Paris so he could open a sausage shop!"). But, fifteen years later and after reports home about how nice the shop was, everyone's just pleased that he's happy. Lynne got the story while Chet was off at the ATM getting some cash to pay for our purchases, as the "machine diabolique" was not cooperating.
Laden with our packages, we then went around the corner to Chet's favorite (so far) viennoiserie (patisserie only fancier!) to get some tasty treats to snack on. And finally we were off to Ile de la Cite, the Conciergerie (where they imprisoned Marie Antoinette, Robespierre and Danton before carting them in the tumbrils to Place de la Concorde and beheading them), the crypt underneath Notre Dame, and St Chappelle, which is famous for its windows.
The Conciergerie was very interesting, given its history. It's remains right within the Palais de Justice compound, and serves as a reminder of where justice used to lead. We saw the chapel that now replaces Marie Antoinette's cell, and a listing of every individual executed during the French Revolution (a new historical event of interest to Chet). Surprisingly, they weren't all nobles and such - many were what one might call regular people: bakers, butchers, members of what we would term the middle class today. A reminder that history can overtake you, irrespective of your role in life.
Another interesting fact: Paris, the city, was originally just the Ile de la Cite. Back when it was called Lutece by the Romans, it was an island city. So, some of the most interesting Roman ruins and remains of the original city are to be found in the crypt underneath Notre Dame. It was fascinating to see remanants of the original Roman houses (complete with central heating systems!) and the original children's hospital that was built during the middle ages. And really made us ponder how differently the French and the Italians guard their cultural treasures. These were accessible via little bridges overlooking the ruins, but you couldn't actually get to the ruins themselves.
St Chappelle is best known for its windows in the upstairs chapel. One of the things that makes this church unique is its lay-out: it's built on two stories and the poor were meant to worship below. Which was nice enough, but nothing like the upstairs chapel, where the nobles and the rich got to say their prayers and receive absolution. Upstairs was lined with magnificent stained glass windows reaching up to a high ceiling. Unfortunately, the main alter window had been removed for restoration and cleaning while we were there, so we'll have to go back to see it in full splendor!
On the way back to the hotel, we went to the Monoprix (local supermarket) and bought some nice French chocolates to bring home. Lynne's managed to get Chet hooked on French chocolate of the down-market (as in everyday) sort.
After a short rest at the hotel, Chet wanted to go back out to a cheese shop (fromagerie) that we'd passed the day before. To get fixings for a nice picnic (if it ever stopped raining!). So, up Rue Grenelle and across Boulevard Raspail and we were at Bartholemy, fromagiers extraordinaire, where the smell of artisanal cheeses wafts out the door in a most provocative way. We went in and were immediately surrounded by four cheese-ologists (fromagiers, says Lynne), all wearing white doctors' coats. We could tell this was a serious business we were about to undertake. Lynne did all the talking and the first question asked by the gentleman helping us was "these cheeses are for eating when?". We both thought this was great because it proved that cheese is a scientific matter here in France. In all, we got four types of cheese: a half round of a wonderful camembert, a chevre (goat) that was nice and melty in the middle, a roquefort, and a cheese covered with grape must and hazlenuts. All four emit powerful cheese smells, kind of like a sock you've worn for a full week in a hot climate. Yucky in socks, but delectable in cheeses. Then Chet made his most serious faux pas in France: he asked if there were any cheeses with mushrooms (champignons) in them. The little fromagier drew himself up to his full (not very considerable) height, frowned in a displeased way, and said (pointing out the door), "if you want mushrooms, you can find them at the epicerie down the street; here, we sell cheese!" Appropriately abashed, we completed and paid for our purchases and went on our way.
And finally, on to a late dinner at the Royal Luxembourg, a restaurant that supposedly specialised in the southwestern cuisine located near the Jardins du Luxembourg. There we shared another excellent salad, enjoyed an excellent confit de canard (duck), and great bread. And a proper tarte tatin for dessert (the one we had in Provence was nice enough, but the apples weren't really caramelized enough for a real tarte tatin).
Next we stopped at a small shop which sells Italian foods, and were able to by some bottarga, along with some homemade fig and other jams which we couldn't resist. The lady was the shop owner's mother, who lives in Corsica and makes the jams herself. Her son, who was in Corsica visiting, established the shop 15 years ago after a successful career in finance. Much to his father's and his grandfather's dismay, he gave up the career just as it was taking off in order to open the little shop, modeled after his aunt's in Corsica. His grandfather refused to ask after him for a good six months afterward! ("We didn't send him to university in Paris so he could open a sausage shop!"). But, fifteen years later and after reports home about how nice the shop was, everyone's just pleased that he's happy. Lynne got the story while Chet was off at the ATM getting some cash to pay for our purchases, as the "machine diabolique" was not cooperating.
Laden with our packages, we then went around the corner to Chet's favorite (so far) viennoiserie (patisserie only fancier!) to get some tasty treats to snack on. And finally we were off to Ile de la Cite, the Conciergerie (where they imprisoned Marie Antoinette, Robespierre and Danton before carting them in the tumbrils to Place de la Concorde and beheading them), the crypt underneath Notre Dame, and St Chappelle, which is famous for its windows.
The Conciergerie was very interesting, given its history. It's remains right within the Palais de Justice compound, and serves as a reminder of where justice used to lead. We saw the chapel that now replaces Marie Antoinette's cell, and a listing of every individual executed during the French Revolution (a new historical event of interest to Chet). Surprisingly, they weren't all nobles and such - many were what one might call regular people: bakers, butchers, members of what we would term the middle class today. A reminder that history can overtake you, irrespective of your role in life.
Another interesting fact: Paris, the city, was originally just the Ile de la Cite. Back when it was called Lutece by the Romans, it was an island city. So, some of the most interesting Roman ruins and remains of the original city are to be found in the crypt underneath Notre Dame. It was fascinating to see remanants of the original Roman houses (complete with central heating systems!) and the original children's hospital that was built during the middle ages. And really made us ponder how differently the French and the Italians guard their cultural treasures. These were accessible via little bridges overlooking the ruins, but you couldn't actually get to the ruins themselves.
St Chappelle is best known for its windows in the upstairs chapel. One of the things that makes this church unique is its lay-out: it's built on two stories and the poor were meant to worship below. Which was nice enough, but nothing like the upstairs chapel, where the nobles and the rich got to say their prayers and receive absolution. Upstairs was lined with magnificent stained glass windows reaching up to a high ceiling. Unfortunately, the main alter window had been removed for restoration and cleaning while we were there, so we'll have to go back to see it in full splendor!
On the way back to the hotel, we went to the Monoprix (local supermarket) and bought some nice French chocolates to bring home. Lynne's managed to get Chet hooked on French chocolate of the down-market (as in everyday) sort.
After a short rest at the hotel, Chet wanted to go back out to a cheese shop (fromagerie) that we'd passed the day before. To get fixings for a nice picnic (if it ever stopped raining!). So, up Rue Grenelle and across Boulevard Raspail and we were at Bartholemy, fromagiers extraordinaire, where the smell of artisanal cheeses wafts out the door in a most provocative way. We went in and were immediately surrounded by four cheese-ologists (fromagiers, says Lynne), all wearing white doctors' coats. We could tell this was a serious business we were about to undertake. Lynne did all the talking and the first question asked by the gentleman helping us was "these cheeses are for eating when?". We both thought this was great because it proved that cheese is a scientific matter here in France. In all, we got four types of cheese: a half round of a wonderful camembert, a chevre (goat) that was nice and melty in the middle, a roquefort, and a cheese covered with grape must and hazlenuts. All four emit powerful cheese smells, kind of like a sock you've worn for a full week in a hot climate. Yucky in socks, but delectable in cheeses. Then Chet made his most serious faux pas in France: he asked if there were any cheeses with mushrooms (champignons) in them. The little fromagier drew himself up to his full (not very considerable) height, frowned in a displeased way, and said (pointing out the door), "if you want mushrooms, you can find them at the epicerie down the street; here, we sell cheese!" Appropriately abashed, we completed and paid for our purchases and went on our way.
And finally, on to a late dinner at the Royal Luxembourg, a restaurant that supposedly specialised in the southwestern cuisine located near the Jardins du Luxembourg. There we shared another excellent salad, enjoyed an excellent confit de canard (duck), and great bread. And a proper tarte tatin for dessert (the one we had in Provence was nice enough, but the apples weren't really caramelized enough for a real tarte tatin).
9/25/07 Musee d'Orsay
Decided to pass on the hotel breakfast and try the cafe next door. A tartine and grand creme (Lynne) and chocolat belge (Chet) later, and well satisfied, we set off for the Orsay. Chet hung out while Lynne wandered through and examined the artwork, sculpture, impressionist paintings, sculptures and an assortment of artists' first models some of which were ultimately completed and some not. Catching up and watching the world go by, who should pass but our friends Charles and Linda! We last saw them at Paul's birthday party in Oakland. Very cool. And - also funny - they'd run into another couple from Oakland (also at the party) earlier and were on their way to meet them for lunch.
After a half day at the Orsay, we headed to a local cafe for lunch when Chet finally tasted a croque madame (inside-out grilled ham and cheese sandwich with an egg). Lynne had the croque monsieur (same thing minus the egg); both were very good. Quick lunch and we were off to the Musee de la Monnaie, or the old mint, a splendid old building housing a coin collection that dates back from the Roman times. Went looking for Chet's culinary bookstore (which had moved), and then back to the hotel for a rest.
A late-ish dinner at Cafe du Metro got us a very warm and enthusiastic welcome from Emilie, who waited on us Saturday night but was tending bar this evening. An excellent salade du sud ouest (again), followed by a lovely fish dinner and we'd finished yet another day.
They're going by way too fast!
After a half day at the Orsay, we headed to a local cafe for lunch when Chet finally tasted a croque madame (inside-out grilled ham and cheese sandwich with an egg). Lynne had the croque monsieur (same thing minus the egg); both were very good. Quick lunch and we were off to the Musee de la Monnaie, or the old mint, a splendid old building housing a coin collection that dates back from the Roman times. Went looking for Chet's culinary bookstore (which had moved), and then back to the hotel for a rest.
A late-ish dinner at Cafe du Metro got us a very warm and enthusiastic welcome from Emilie, who waited on us Saturday night but was tending bar this evening. An excellent salade du sud ouest (again), followed by a lovely fish dinner and we'd finished yet another day.
They're going by way too fast!
9/24/07 The Louvre day
The Louvre! Which, we've discovered, is just a 10 minute walk from our hotel. We spent the better part of the day there. Gazing at Greek , Roman and Italian statues, Italian paintings and oh yes - French statues in the Cours Putin and Marly. The Marly horses were simply splendid.
After four hours of room after room filled with art in a setting that is - itself - a work of art, we stumbled up to the Jardin des Tuileries whose gardens were originally designed in the 17th century. Very formal but pleasant gardens ablaze with color and punctuated by three fountains, Napoleon's triumphal arch on one end and the Place de la Concorde on the other.
After relaxing at one of the fountains, we headed to the Orangerie. This small museum houses eight huge canvases of Monet's water lilies in two perfectly lit oval rooms. These are among the most peaceful spaces one can find in a museum, even when filled with tourists and cameras.
After emerging from the Orangerie, museum'd out, we headed through the Place de la Concorde and out along the Rue St Honore. Stopping for a snack (millefeuille with framboises et chantilly), we stopped to munch in the Place Vendome among the grand houses. Then it was on the the Jardin du Palais Royale for a rest and to decide about dinner.
We had come across a place on Place Andre Malraux, which seemed a likely candidate, so it was off to Le Dauphin, our splurge dinner for the week. An excellent Bordeaux white, with escargots (Chet) and pate de foie (Lynne), a magnificent stew of pork cheeks with root vegetables (Lynne) and pasta with wild mushrooms (Chet), and figs in a Jurancon for afters. Yum. We settled the bill, stumbled out and wandered back to our hotel, Chet taking pictures of the Tour Eiffel and the Louvre at night on the way back.
Another full day in the City of Lights!
After four hours of room after room filled with art in a setting that is - itself - a work of art, we stumbled up to the Jardin des Tuileries whose gardens were originally designed in the 17th century. Very formal but pleasant gardens ablaze with color and punctuated by three fountains, Napoleon's triumphal arch on one end and the Place de la Concorde on the other.
After relaxing at one of the fountains, we headed to the Orangerie. This small museum houses eight huge canvases of Monet's water lilies in two perfectly lit oval rooms. These are among the most peaceful spaces one can find in a museum, even when filled with tourists and cameras.
After emerging from the Orangerie, museum'd out, we headed through the Place de la Concorde and out along the Rue St Honore. Stopping for a snack (millefeuille with framboises et chantilly), we stopped to munch in the Place Vendome among the grand houses. Then it was on the the Jardin du Palais Royale for a rest and to decide about dinner.
We had come across a place on Place Andre Malraux, which seemed a likely candidate, so it was off to Le Dauphin, our splurge dinner for the week. An excellent Bordeaux white, with escargots (Chet) and pate de foie (Lynne), a magnificent stew of pork cheeks with root vegetables (Lynne) and pasta with wild mushrooms (Chet), and figs in a Jurancon for afters. Yum. We settled the bill, stumbled out and wandered back to our hotel, Chet taking pictures of the Tour Eiffel and the Louvre at night on the way back.
Another full day in the City of Lights!
9/23/07 Paris Day 2 Cluny museum, St Sulpice
Ate breakfast in the hotel after getting up late. We went to the church called Saint Sulpice where they have a 700 pipe organ and we listened to a post-mass 30-minute concert; absolutely marvelous. Then we walked the streets to the Cluny museum which is the museum of the middle ages (which was great) and we bought six-day museum passes which let us into most of the museums in Paris and put us in the front of the queue as well. The Cluny was very good and featured middle age tapestries (including the famous Dame et licorne series) that Lynne really enjoyed and Roman ruins (les thermes de Cluny) which we both found quite interesting.
Very impressive and the weather was good with temps in the 70s. Our next destination was the catacombs and and we took off for about a mile walk there. Got to the catacombs and Chet went in to see the it and it was amazing. Six million people were moved from their original burial sites to these new burial (stacking) location under the ground of Paris in huge gypsum mine caves that extend for over a mile. The adventure began when Chet realized that he was getting out of the catacombs at a different place from where he went in. Lynne was waiting at the starting point and Chet was lost somewhere at the exit with no map no ability to speak French. So, finally (after a restorative pastry) Chet found a cab and managed to communicate where he had to go and we had a happy reunion back at the starting point. Chet had a newly reinforced opinion about Lynne's French speaking ability.
Our next destination was the Pantheon of Paris. This is where many of the heroes of France are buried. We were able to pay respects to both Victor Hugo and the Curies. And then, we went to the Luxemburg gardens which were probably the prettiest gardens we had ever seen anywhere. Large fountains with big reflecting pools, fresh live flower all over, people are not allowed to walk on the grass, and one can only run/ jog in certain areas so it all very civilized and manicured and people seem to enjoy it.
Finally a bit later we had dinner at Bistro Saint Benoit and had mussels with garlic and butter, french onion soup, salmon with lemon butter and monkfish w pepper sauce. Very nice.
Very impressive and the weather was good with temps in the 70s. Our next destination was the catacombs and and we took off for about a mile walk there. Got to the catacombs and Chet went in to see the it and it was amazing. Six million people were moved from their original burial sites to these new burial (stacking) location under the ground of Paris in huge gypsum mine caves that extend for over a mile. The adventure began when Chet realized that he was getting out of the catacombs at a different place from where he went in. Lynne was waiting at the starting point and Chet was lost somewhere at the exit with no map no ability to speak French. So, finally (after a restorative pastry) Chet found a cab and managed to communicate where he had to go and we had a happy reunion back at the starting point. Chet had a newly reinforced opinion about Lynne's French speaking ability.
Our next destination was the Pantheon of Paris. This is where many of the heroes of France are buried. We were able to pay respects to both Victor Hugo and the Curies. And then, we went to the Luxemburg gardens which were probably the prettiest gardens we had ever seen anywhere. Large fountains with big reflecting pools, fresh live flower all over, people are not allowed to walk on the grass, and one can only run/ jog in certain areas so it all very civilized and manicured and people seem to enjoy it.
Finally a bit later we had dinner at Bistro Saint Benoit and had mussels with garlic and butter, french onion soup, salmon with lemon butter and monkfish w pepper sauce. Very nice.
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